Friday, July 11, 2014

Device of Konstantia Kaloethina

I don't believe I ever posted this here. I take part in the Nobelese Largesse artisan swap meets, coordinated on Facebook. This was the item I created for Konstantia Kaloethina, "Azure, a standing seraph argent, a bordure gyronny argent and sable."


I decided to try enamels, and didn't get it as even as I would have liked (though the subtle texture of the glass may have inhibited this as well). This was better a task for flashed glass, but the swap limits the expense of items that can be used. The border, black and white/silver, is clear and dark smokey-colored glass.

I'm particularly proud of the seraph, because I did it entirely by hand. I didn't trace anything or use a visual reference, I just pulled to mind a seraphim and started scrubbing it out.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Grozing iron fun

Kendrick (THL Kendrick Cameron) made me two awesome grozing irons for my glass work. One is going to Lady Moll and I'm keeping the other, and hopefully we will demonstrate them during our glass cutting class at Pennsic.

I have previously written of the grozing iron I made, poorly, for A&S work. To compare, this one is MUCH easier, almost effortless to use. My "dremel" iron was much narrower and took more wrist force to chew into the glass. This is proper stock with a wider gripping face and more weight. I also noticed this generates a fair cloud of glass dust! Use under proper ventilation, outdoors, and/or wearing an appropriately-rated respirator!!

A quick video of me using my grozing iron:



Thursday, June 12, 2014

SCA A&S 50 Challenge: Stained Glass Heraldry

1 - The Populace Badge of the Middle Kingdom
















2 - Memorial Panel for Bryan (In progress)














 3 - Badge of THL Estelle de la Mer


















4 - Cross Pattee (The badge of the Knight's Templar)



















 5 - Populace Badge, Barony of White Waters, Lantern














6 - Roundel of the Arms of the Barony of White Waters


















7 - Device of Alexander Adelbrecht von Markelingen


















8 - House Shadow Dragon suncatcher


















 9 - Vickie's device
10 - My device
11 - Ayreton Roundel
12 - Baroness' device
13 - Baroness' husband's device maybe
---
14 - Aggie's device
15 - Eadric's device
16 - Ed's device

 ---
17 - Dayle's device?
18 - Purple Fret suncatcher



19 - Estelle de la Mer Scarab Badge
20 - Dragon's heart
21 - Konrad
22 - Calybrid?
23 - Dougale
24 - N. Oaken Heraldic Display Prize - Tudor Rose Suncatcher
25 - Dr Best
26 - Savage Badge Plates
27 - Device of Konstantia Kaloethina



28 - Silver Acorn Scroll (The award badge is heraldry)
29-  Lilith Northwode

30 - Device of Mistress Elena de Vexin
31 - Device of Mistress Kirsten Thorsteinsdottir
32 - Chicago Star*


33 - ODH Scroll for Zafirah of the White Waters, Baroness White Waters


34 - Master Gailen Alric Ros
35 - Laurel Scroll for Mistress Estelle de la Mer
36 - Badge of Jean-Yves de Chierbourg
37 - Barony of Ayreton Populace Badges

38 - Barony of Shattered Crystal
39 - Archery Pheon Prizes

40 - Badge of Baroness GenRose de Glendalough 
41 - Badge or Device of Quenild of Mercia
42 - Arms of Mistress Gianetta Andreini da Vicenza
43 - Baroness Laurencia of Carlisle, OL
44 - Kendrick Cameron
45 - Petrona!
46 - Kriemhilt
47 - Catarina
48 - Crespine de la Vallee
49 - Purple Fret Scroll for Kat the Green
50 - Midrealm Plates/Bowls

* I rendered a Chicago Star in stained glass for my office. It's purely modern both in subject and construction. Still, it IS stained glass heraldry. I'm including it in the listing unless I reach 50 and have the time to substitute something I feel is more appropriate.

Sunday, June 1, 2014

Homebrew Lightbox

I've been asked a few times about building lightboxes. For ease of reference I'm putting my directions here. They tend to be pricey, in my experience, but I built mine cheaply in a college dorm and have never felt the need to upgrade (the want, yes, the need? No.)

It's not pretty but it IS strong enough for me to lean on the surface while I work and portable enough for me to haul to events and classes!

Two 1"x6"x4' "standard" boards - 3.49 each.
3-4 "24"x30" Clear Glass Sheet" -
1 2" aluminum corner bracket (Optional - I use it for aligning/holding the surface)
1 Sheet of plexiglass (lexan, etc).
1+ fluorescent "kitchen light" at Walmart (I use two 12" and 1 18", models that chain off one another)
1 white garbage bag
Mirror shards/aluminum foil (Optional)

Cut, or have your lumber yard cut, the two boards in half so you have 4 boards of 2' length. Assemble them into a box (I chose a "pinwheel" format where the end of one board butts the side of another). Once sturdy, if desired attach the corner bracket to one corner for aligning the surface. Place aluminum foil or mirror pieces along the bottom to reflect light, if desired. Place the light(s) inside the box and run the cord under the edge to your wall outlet. Place one glass sheet on the top. Cover with a garbage bag (can be folded in half or cut open depending on how bright you need). Place the rest of the glass on top, then the plexiglass sheet. The glass provides strength and the plexiglass protection (for all those times your glasscutter goes right off the edge of the piece you are working). Turn on the lights and you are ready to go!

Because of the location of my outlets beneath and behind my work benches, I bought a remote controlled power strip (~$15 I think) at Menards. This lets me turn on my lightbox (and by extension my grinder and soldering iron) without climbing around on the floor beneath my work benches. You know, where all the glass dust and shards fall. I strongly recommend them!

[Permission to reprint is granted to any/all SCA publications, physical or digital, with minor editing as long as attribution is given and a copy sent to me! For Facebook, etc, please link here rather than reposting.]


Thursday, May 29, 2014

A Stained Glass Scroll

I've seen a few stained glass award scrolls in recent years. Each one has been for a peerage. A recent court list came out shortly before the event and, feeling it my duty, I offered to take an assignment to help out. While thinking about the scroll design I wondered why I, the self-declared "Worst Scribe in the Midrealm" don't ever try and play to my strengths. There is no reason why a stained glass scroll could not be for a lower award, and my assignment was for an Award of the Silver Acorn (Midrealm Youth A&S award). A bit of inspiration struck me. Later, a new bit of inspiration struck me.

I manually cut out an 8" circle of clear glass. Using the knowledge Lady Moll had given me last Pennsic, I prepared a heavy matt and applied it to most of the disk. I blended it as even as I could and let it dry.

Once it dried, I laid it directly on my cartoon. Normally my patterns go beneath a thing sheet of plexiglass on my lightbox, however I've learned that even a little distance weakens the image. Placing the glass directly on the paper gives me as clear an image as possible through the matting. I grabbed a stick (specifically a bamboo skewer, I buy them 100 at a time at Walmart) and traced the outline of the white spaces.



When I mixed my matting paint I intentionally went heavy on the gum arabic. I knew I would be handling this a lot and wanted the paint to have solid grip. Unfortunately I then discovered my scrubs couldn't remove the paint. I had to spent between 90 minutes and 2 hours with my skewer in hand, scraping out the spaces. OUCH.



Once I was happy with the white space, I fired it. Fortunately it fired well! Everything looked good, so I began the part that I feared the most: the calligraphy.

I will reiterate, I am not much of a scribe. I can bumble my way through some Carolingian Miniscule or the old gothic hand they taught us in middle school art class. It's not polished and I don't use a dip pen or period inks. I only take assignments when it's an emergency (large lists/short time, etc). I don't TRY and put my terrible handwriting out into this world. Does this seem like a lot of dithering? It is, and I hope to some day be remembered for my glass work, not my scribal arts. Please forgive the atrocity you are about to witness.

Parents, cover your children's eyes. Children, get a parent who will cover your eyes.


At least Their Majesties can rest easy I won't make a profession out of forging their signatures! I suspect Estelle will tell me it's not that bad, etc etc. 

Now, for the calligraphy. I've tried in the past preparing standard water-based tracing paint and a square-shaped brush. I couldn't get anything resembling a good result. I consulted Elskus, as I often do when stumped. Around page 65 of my edition he describes sketching on glass with metal pens. I realized that I should be able to repurpose this method for calligraphy. My scribal betters may be momentarily pleased, for once I grabbed my metal-nibbed dip pen!

I put a small pile of black vitreous paint on my palette and added just enough clove oil to grind and start working the paint into a paste. Once it was well incorporated I added more clove oil until it got near the consistency of black india ink. Elskus is very clear that it must be slightly thicker than *black* india ink. Fortunately at the bottom of my scribal box I had a vial of it for reference. 

Once the clove oil ink was ready I put it into a narrow container (a plastic sake cup, specifically) into which I could dip my pen. I had a piece of paper with lines on it to place under the glass as a guide. I then went to it.

Clove oil does not spread, and is considered a "non-drying" oil. It will dry when heated, however. 

Once the second firing was finished, I applied a much lighter matt with the same paint for shading. For accents I decided to apply some silver stain to the little circles. One last firing and it is complete.



The seal was created in polymer clay by our Dragon Signet. It is intended to be hung from a hole in the scroll, however I opted to use two small soldered jump rings. My original plan was to drill the holes in the glass first, to ensure it would be safe. I forgot and jumped straight into the painting, and didn't want to risk breaking the glass at this point. I drilled one hole for the hanging jump ring. I worked some chain into it and soldered it closed.





Lessons Learned

It is essential to get the paint ground as well as possible. My palettes aren't rough enough and I didn't spend enough time grinding the paint. This lent a certain grittiness to it that made it occasionally difficult to write with. It's hard to get rough palettes without sandblasting gear, however. Hopefully I'll have that remedied before Pennsic.

I had issues with my dip pen and the little reservoir clip. Near the end I just popped it off and dipped more frequently.

Most everyone who saw it asked me why I had the "paint smear" the "smudges" or in one rare case "the shading." The 3D effect was not immediately obvious to anyone who saw the scroll. I will need to keep that in mind in the future. This was my cartoon:



You must learn to love clove oil (or aniseed oil, an alternative Elskus mentions), because you will smell it for hours, days, etc. Over this past weekend Mistress Kirsten said water-based paint will work just fine for this purpose, which would be MUCH easier to clean and correct, though at this point I might miss the clove smell!

Use a guide for scratching out the circles, they will look much smoother!

Jump rings get hot INCREDIBLY Fast. I have a ring-shaped burn on my left index finger after barely touching the ring with the soldering iron. I wonder if they are plated copper?

It was nerve wracking to take the scroll back, after the recipient and seen and held it, and tear it apart. I was afraid the stain would go wrong, the glass shatter, the drill crack it, etc etc etc. I only had a few days to make this happen, in the future I want to make sure it is completely done before it is turned in before court. The stress is not good!

Monday, May 12, 2014

The Putty Party

A few years ago I learned a great shortcut. But first, dramatic tension!

I've wanted to try and make thumb wax for a long time. There is a recipe in Elskus and another in Isenberg ("How to Work in Stained Glass", third edition, my modern glass bible). Thumb wax is used to hold glass pieces onto a glass easel or lightbox for test viewing or while painting.

Elskus' recipe is simple: a quarter pound of beeswax and a teaspoon of venice turpentine. The one given in Isenberg is considerably more complicated, calling for a significant amount of beesewax, a pound of cornstrach, "sweet oil" (olive oil), venice turpentine, and resin. The recipe given, below, must make enough for Tiffany's studio at it's most productive. I cut everything into a 1/6 proportion and still ended up with a lot of thumb wax.

Thumb wax (from Anita/Seymour Isenberg's How to Work in Stained Glass, 3rd edition, P. 188)
1 pound beeswax
1 pound cornstarch
4 ounces resin
7 ounces venice turpentine
1-3/4 ounce sweet oil (olive oil).

Melt the beeswax in double boiler, add the cornstarch one spoonful at a time. Then add resin, venice turps, and oil. Mix thoroughly.

Note that the above is the original recipe, not my reduced portions!

I asked my chef mother about setting up a double boiler. She suggested a good plastic bowl. Being a professional she has high grade bowls. I settled for gladware....

Hey, it doesn't melt...

I made Elskus' recipe first, beeswax and rosin. It's nice and simple to be sure.

The molten thumb wax, in it's cooling bowl

It took a small laboratories worth of scales and calculators to get some of those numbers converted and reduced. Here are the ingredients I used for the Isenbergs' recipe:


The mix being cooked

The two waxes finished, Isenberg on the left (the cornstarch makes it much lighter)

The waxes smell amazing. Beeswax gives off a honey scent when warmed. Venice turpentine is drawn from pine trees, and that is another favorite smell of mine. I also used pine resin. 

If you've never worked with venice turps, it's very messy. It gets on your hands and it wears off within an hour or two. Washing it off was impossible, though I probably don't have the right solvents.

The waxes, after being poured, are very solid. You rip out a chunk and start kneading it with your fingers and it becomes pliable. Unfortunately it leaves a definite coating of turps on your fingers as you use it. Elskus' recipe is much harder and takes more to make it pliable. Once it is warmed up, both seem to react similarly. I immediately had a suspicion that the wax would leave behind residue on the glass, if it's leaving it behind on my fingers. This is probably fine for glass you are going to fire (the wax will run or burn off) and should be fine for leaded glass, but I think this will be completely unacceptable for copper foil:





 Click the pictures to enlarge them. You will see on each piece or pieces a distinct residue of thumb wax.

This leads to my personal favorite thumb wax, something that seemed obvious to me when, in a pinch, I needed something to hold glass to my lightbox.


SILLY PUTTY

Ever since I was little I've loved Silly Putty. My parents have made it a point to give me an egg or two of it every Christmas as a gag gift.


I grabbed a handy egg one January when I needed to hold glass to my lightbox while I aggressively blended some matt paint. It worked wonderfully. No residue, easy to clean up, it's sat on top of one bottle or another in my studio for years.

I needed to trace a few bevels to make an accurate pattern of the gaps between. I turned to my silly putty to hold everything together.

There are two other alternatives that need to be discussed: Non-thumb wax (usually beeswax, kept in a crockpot-type thing and applied with an eyedropper). I didn't test it because I don't have room on my benches for a small potpourri pot to keep the wax hot and don't want to deal with clean up. I suspect it would be much more easily cleaned up but I question whether the wax would leave the glass clean. Beeswax is used to... well, wax a lot of things and it applies itself avidly.

I once tried plain candle wax. I don't recommend it. While melting a candle has a lot of benefits for ambiance and seems like it would be a good source, I found it very difficult to clean up; after scraping a lot of it off I had to soak the bevels in hot water and wipe them clean with a rag.

So, for my time and money, silly putty is where it's at. It's not going to hold pieces to a vertical easel, if that's how you choose to paint, but if you work on a lightbox like I do it's a great choice.

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

No more BS about Pb

A bit of an "aside." I've had the unpleasant experience of listening to several heated discussions on Facebook about lead safety. I've had multiple intelligent friends speak to me about concerns about their glasswork and non-glass friends worried about my health and safety.

I am impressionable when it comes to medical matters, so a heated discussion on a wonderful Facebook group for glass artists left me a bit paranoid. At the time I spent a bit of money to build a better ventilation system, researched lead safety extensively, and discussed it with everyone I knew. I had been made to believe, however briefly, that my love of glass was killing all of my loved ones who set foot in my house.

Not happening. Today's post is going to cover some lead safety "Fact or Crap" items.

The big Fact: The significant threat is ingestion, not inhalation.

Think of lead much like water. Is ice contributing to the humidity of your air (are you inhaling it?) Yes, technically. A tiny portion of the ice can sublimate straight into water vapor. But it's so little it's insignificant. Is liquid water sitting in a glass adding to your humidity? Yes, very slowly. If you want to raise the humidity in a room, how do you do it? A pot of boiling water works much better. Lead is little different... actually, MORE difficult than water.

Lead melts at 621.43 (°F). At that point it's equivalent to liquid water (as far as our inhalation of it). Lead doesn't boil until 3180 °F. We are quickly melting it and it cools and resolidifies. You aren't at a risk of inhaling lead fumes unless you are smelting it. If you solder and you see fumes/smoke fly in the air that is not solder, that is flux. Flux is often resin based (check your bottle and your MSDS) and/or a chemical formula that will not poison you. You CAN irritate your sinuses and lungs, and cough for a day or two (at least the brand I use, Old Masters, can't poison me unless I confuse it's blue color for Romulan Ale and take a swig).

Now, as you work on it you get it all over your hands. That's why you must wash your hands immediately after working. You want to get lead poisoning, lick your fingers. I've cast lead into cames now, it didn't generate fumes (and incidentally my stovetop could barely melt the lead).

Some of us paint, and we use lead-based paints. Like a lampworker or glassblower using frit/powder, it is more of a concern. However, the powdered pigment isn't like flour and so on. It's a "heavy" powder, filled with glass fluxes and heavy minerals. While it is a powder, I've noticed minimal "floating dust" when I opened the sealed jar. I take a palette knife's worth and put on a palette with no noticeable cloud. Of course then we promptly mix it with binders and mediums and such and it's never again in dust form. I do own a mask that I can wear if I am concerned (and I use it for my silver stain mixes, which DO like to make dust clouds). Otherwise... as rare as I actually mix a fresh batch of paint... it's not a serious concern for me.

Now, for three "real world" arguments. The owner of the local glass shop, a woman who is as generous with her knowledge as she is skilled at a workbench, discussed lead safety with me a few months ago after a Facebook thread made me panicky and I bought ducting to build a ventilation rig. She informed me that in 30+ years of doing stained glass she has occasionally had a blood lead level test run, and it has never shown anything abnormal.

In the aforementioned FB thread, the owner of a professional studio mentioned she had an employee once who did test for elevated lead. Turned out he hadn't been changing out of his work clothes at work, and had been driving home in them after being around soldering and lead 8 hours a day. THAT lead to an "elevated" level of blood lead! Not lead poisoning.

So, in an effort to maybe put this to bed, both for others and for my own paranoia, I just went to the hardware store three hours ago and bought a big pack of lead tests. Instant Lead Testing ("If it's red, There's lead!" it says. "If it's red, you dead!" I thought) by Lead Check. A pack of plastic tubes with two ampules you crush to mix the solution. You then apply it to surfaces and If It's Red(tm) You're gonna have a bad time, mmkay?

Test 1 - My computer desk. I do my pattern work on my computer and have been known to absentmindedly click print while working on glass. Oh, I also eat here and spend 10-16 hours a day near this desk. You can imagine why it was site number 1. I dumped yellow testing liquid all over the desk, several important keys, and the left button of my mouse. Not a hint of red.

Test 2 - Other common surfaces in my house. After all, as some people keep trying to say to us, lead vapors are floating around to kill us and everyone we love. My couch? Nope. My dining room table? Nope. If you are unfamiliar with my home, it's an open floor plan, no walls. Couch armrest, kitchen counter, all ok.

Test 3 - What the heck, is this thing on? Solder and my (paint-encrusted) palette knife. Both came back brilliant dark red (oddly the solder took several seconds and the palette knife's droplets turned red practically as soon as I thought about applying). I guess they work!

Test 4 - My workbench. I tried the surface of my primary work bench. Yellow!
Test 5 - The plastic top of my lightbox. Tried several spots, all yellow!
Test 6 - The side of a plastic storage thing bordering my solder area. Yellow! This is about 1' from my soldering area.
Test 7 - The wall bordering my solder area. Permanent yellow staining of the paint, a foot from my soldering area.

Test 8 - The steel coil holder for my soldering iron, less than 1" away from the hot tip of the iron when it's on. YELLOW.
Test 9 - Dragging the thing through every cranny and coil above the soldering iron in that holder. FINALLY got some pink.... at the opening of the holder, which I hit every time I put the iron away without looking right at it. I guess that makes sense.



Edit: Test 10 - Tested the ceiling above my soldering area in several spots on a 2' line above the bench. YELLOW.

So, in short: Don't smelt lead from ore, don't lick your fingers, don't confuse your gin and tonic with your flux and wash your hands, kids!